Billard CaramboleCourse, systems & practice

Typical shots and spins

Ball 1 (cue ball, the player's own) Ball 2 (touched first) Ball 3 (touched second, completes the carom)

📍 On every diagram: the dotted circle is the position ball 1's center must occupy at the moment of contact (the "ghost ball"), and the dark dot marks the exact point where it touches ball 2. It's that point — not ball 2's center — that you should aim at mentally.

⎙ Printable A4 sheet The thirteen shots in a one-page table, to keep near the table.

🎱 Shot simulator

Place the 3 balls and the aiming sight, set the power, the hit height (draw / center / follow) and the side spin (left / right), then Launch: the cue ball hits ball 2, deflects, bounces off the cushions and may go on to touch ball 3. The dotted path previews the trajectory before you even launch.

Natural shot

High hit (above the cue ball's center), with a ball fullness that ranges from 1/4 to 3/4 depending on the situation — it's often called "half-ball" for simplicity, but the actual fullness varies within that range. A full hit (centered contact) sends ball 2 straight ahead and leaves ball 1 with almost no deflection: that's never a natural shot.

High hit, fullness close to half-ball: on contact, ball 2 leaves along its line (dotted) and ball 1 is sent off at the natural rejection angle (~45°) toward ball 3.

Draw (retro)

Low hit, below the ball's center. The cue ball comes back after touching the target ball. Essential for holding your ball back and repositioning without "running up" with the other balls.

Simple setup: low and with no side spin — it's the ball fullness that sets ball 1's direction on the way back. A direct draw becomes risky when balls 1 and 2 are too far apart (you have to hit hard to draw back) or too close (risk of a push shot): in these cases, go instead via one or two cushions by hitting the other ball, which also brings ball 2 closer.

Low hit: on contact, ball 2 moves forward (dotted) and ball 1 comes back (draw) toward ball 3.

Follow (coulé)

High hit (above center), with a ball fullness between 3/4 and full — the opposite end of the fullness scale from the natural shot. The closer to full, the more ball 1 keeps going straight after contact; the border zone around 3/4 is called the "half-follow".

High hit, fullness between 3/4 and full: ball 1 barely deflects (it "follows") and continues toward ball 3 while ball 2 moves off ahead.

Side spin

Hit to the left or right of center. Changes the ball's exit angle after bouncing off a cushion — the main tool for correcting or exploiting paths in cushion systems such as System 4. The diagram below shows the difference clearly: from the same cushion point, with no side spin the ball leaves at the normal angle of reflection (dotted); with side spin, the exit angle changes markedly (solid line) and lets you reach ball 2.

no side spin

Same cushion point: dotted = normal exit with no side spin (misses ball 2). Solid line = with side spin, the exit angle changes and the carom is made.

Finesse

Very small ball fullness (less than a quarter-ball) on the target ball, which barely deflects while the cue ball keeps most of its original path. Useful when the target ball is almost straight ahead, with very little angle available.

This is often a waiting shot (no regrouping possible). Its difficulty depends on the 1-2 distance and the "degree" of finesse involved: the finer you have to play, the trickier it gets. If the power is high, hit a bit higher to keep some forward roll and limit ball 2 scattering. Practice it in moderation: this type of shot stays rare compared with the natural shot or the draw.

Very fine contact on the edge of ball 2: ball 1 keeps almost its own line toward ball 3, while ball 2 is only slightly deflected (little energy transferred).

Stun (amorti)

Ball 2 is hit "full" enough that it leaves with nearly all the speed — the cue ball, meanwhile, loses almost all its momentum and stops dead at the contact point. It's ball 2 that then goes on to reach ball 3.

2 → 3

Solid line = ball 1 (stops on contact). Dotted = speed transferred to ball 2, which runs on to ball 3.

Cushion-first shot (bricole)

The cue ball touches a cushion before touching ball 2. The angle of reflection off the cushion depends on the angle of incidence and any side spin applied — this is the territory of the calculation systems (see the System 4 tabs).

One cushion before touching ball 2, then on to ball 3.

Double (2 cushions)

The cue ball touches two different cushions before the first contact. A more technical shot than a simple cushion-first shot: you have to work with two successive angles of reflection instead of one.

Two separate cushions before touching ball 2, then ball 3.

Triple (3 cushions)

The cue ball touches three different cushions before the first contact — the same cushion counted twice doesn't count. This is the principle behind three-cushion billiards. The most common pattern is long rail – short rail – long rail. Calculating these paths isn't part of this site yet.

Reversed (retourné)

A shot with reverse side spin in which the cue ball touches one cushion, then the adjacent cushion (the one at the corner), and comes back toward the first cushion before continuing on its way. A shot that requires a good feel for how the side spin carries through contact with both cushions ("the table breaks").

A cushion, then the adjacent cushion (corner), before touching ball 2 then ball 3.

Combination (rencontre)

A shot in which ball 2 and ball 3 are touching or very close together. The cue ball pushes ball 2, which itself transmits the impact to ball 3 — it's this second push that completes the carom.

2 → 3

Ball 2 (touching ball 3) transmits the impact and pushes ball 3.

Piqué (elevated cue)

A near-vertical hit on the cue ball, without tilting the cue as much as for a massé. Makes the ball come back sharply after contact — useful at short range when a classic draw lacks the power to pull back.

Marked return after contact thanks to the near-vertical hit, on to ball 3.

Massé

A very tilted cue (close to vertical) to strongly curve the cue ball's path, usually to go around a ball blocking the direct route. A technical shot best left to experienced players: risk of tearing the cloth if poorly executed.

Curved path to go around the yellow ball (3) blocking the way to the red ball (2).